Gallon House Gin

The Gin and Tonic: From Empire Medicine to the Best Bar Drink in Spain

How a malaria treatment became a world cocktail and what Spain did with it

The Gin and Tonic is the most-ordered gin drink in the world. Two ingredients, ice, a piece of citrus, sometimes a cucumber, sometimes a peppercorn. The drink works because it does almost nothing on purpose. The gin’s juniper sits behind the bitter quinine, the tonic’s sugar takes the edge off the bitter, the carbonation lifts the aromatics into the nose, and the citrus garnish ties the whole thing together with a top note of acid. There is no recipe to ruin and no technique to fumble. Pour the gin, top with cold tonic, drop a wedge in, and the drink is already done.

The Gin and Tonic is also the only cocktail with a serious claim to having been a piece of medicine first. The story is half folk history and half real, and the part that is real is more interesting than the part that is folk.

Gin and Tonic in a tall glass packed with large ice, garnished with a fresh lime wedge, condensation beading on the glass
A Gin and Tonic, the most-ordered gin drink in the world.

Quinine, the Empire, and the only thing that worked

For three hundred years before there was any other treatment, quinine was the only thing the West knew that worked against malaria. It is a bitter alkaloid extracted from the bark of the South American cinchona tree, sometimes called the fever tree. Jesuit missionaries brought it back from Peru in the 1630s, and it became the lifeline of European colonial expansion into malarial zones for the next two and a half centuries. The British Empire ran on it. India ran on it. The Royal Navy ran on it.

Two French chemists, Pierre-Joseph Pelletier and Joseph Bienaimé Caventou, isolated pure quinine from cinchona bark in 1820. By the 1840s British India was processing roughly seven hundred tons of cinchona bark a year. Between 1850 and 1865, Kew Gardens helped move cinchona seedlings out of the Andes and into plantations in India and Java to secure imperial supply. The math of empire required quinine. The taste of quinine required help.

The first tonic water

Commercial tonic water arrived in 1858. On the 28th of May that year, Erasmus Bond, a chemist with Pitt and Company in Islington, London, patented the first quinine-flavored aerated water under the name “Pitt’s aerated tonic water.” Schweppes, founded in 1783, followed twelve years later, launching its Indian Quinine Tonic in 1870. Schweppes used citric acid instead of sulfuric acid to keep the quinine in solution and reportedly carried about 30 milligrams of quinine per pint, which was a meaningful dose for the era.

Tonic water spread through the British colonies as a daily ration and a piece of household medicine. It was bitter, slightly sweet, slightly carbonated, and unpleasant on its own. The standard sweetener helped. Lime helped more. Gin helped most.

What the soldiers actually did

The romantic version of the Gin and Tonic origin story is that British Army officers in India invented the drink as a way to make their daily quinine medicine palatable. Like a lot of romantic stories, it is partly true and mostly tidy.

The math does not quite work. To get a prophylactic dose of quinine from modern tonic water, you would need to drink something like seventy liters of tonic in a day, which is not a clinical regimen anyone has ever followed. Soldiers in the field were dosed with quinine directly, in liquid or powder form, often dissolved in water and forced down. The Gin and Tonic was not a medical delivery system.

What officers and civilians did do was drink quinine tonic for its supposed digestive virtues, the same way Americans of the same era drank bitters tonics for the stomach. They added gin because gin was already on the table, and the combination of bitter quinine, sweet sugar syrup, juniper-heavy gin, and lime turned out to be one of the best long drinks anyone had ever invented. The drink did not save lives. The drink simply was, and was good enough that it survived the empire that made it.

The earliest known printed reference to “gin and tonic” appears in the Oriental Sporting Magazine in 1868, set at a horse race in India. It shows up again in the Medical Press in 1875 as a regular item on a British army officer’s daily list. By the 1880s it was popular enough that English drinkers were complaining about tonic water shortages back in London. By the early twentieth century it was a fixture of the British colonial drinking class, and through them, of the world.

What Spain did

The Gin and Tonic spent the second half of the twentieth century as a competent but uninteresting drink. Schweppes and Canada Dry held the tonic-water shelf, gin was an afterthought, and a Gin and Tonic in most American bars was a 1:3 pour over a few cubes with a tired wedge of lime. Then, in the early 2000s, Spain reinvented it.

The story starts in San Sebastián and Catalonia, in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants. Chefs in the orbit of Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli, which won the World’s Fifty Best Restaurants prize for the first time in 2002, started drinking Gin and Tonics as after-service unwind drinks. They poured them into the stemmed balloon glasses they already had on the rack for red wine, packed those glasses with large-format ice, and decorated the drinks with whatever botanical garnishes were sitting on the kitchen line. Cucumber ribbons. Peppercorns. Juniper berries. Rosemary sprigs. Strips of citrus peel. The drink became a small art form.

Food critic Rafael García Santos wrote about what those chefs were drinking, the format moved from kitchen to bar, and within a few years the Spanish gin tonica had a name, a glass, a method, and a global audience. The copa de balón balloon glass became the visual signature. The elaborate garnish became the dinner-party party trick. The premium gin (and the premium tonic that followed) became a serious bar category.

The tonic revolution

The other half of the modern Gin and Tonic story is the Fever-Tree story. The brand was founded in 2004 by Charles Rolls, a gin-industry veteran who had run Plymouth Gin, and Tim Warrillow, an advertising executive. They had a simple pitch: if three quarters of your drink is the mixer, the mixer should not be made of high-fructose corn syrup. Their Indian Tonic Water launched in 2005 into Selfridges and Waitrose, and the premium tonic category effectively did not exist before that point and is everywhere now.

Q Tonic followed in the United States. Fentimans, Three Cents, East Imperial, 1724, and Thomas Henry filled in around them. By the late 2010s a serious bar had three or four tonics on the shelf and matched them to the gin. The drink that had been a 1:3 pour for decades was suddenly a curated pairing, and the difference was night and day.

What the drink actually is

A Gin and Tonic is a long highball cocktail in the simplest possible form: spirit, mixer, ice, garnish. Structurally it is closer to a Gin Buck (gin and ginger ale) or a Gin Rickey (gin, lime, soda) than to anything stirred or shaken. The bitter of quinine, the sweet of the tonic, the juniper of the gin, the brightness of citrus. Cold suppresses the sweetness, foregrounding the bitter and the botanicals. Carbonation lifts the aromatics. The drink is balanced not by any one element but by the tension between bitter and sweet, with juniper and citrus framing both ends.

This is also why it pays to use the right gin. A neutral, citrus-forward gin gets buried under a sweet tonic. A juniper-led gin drinks taller, more honest, more obviously like a Gin and Tonic. Gallon House Gin is built for this drink. The juniper carries through the quinine. The rose and coriander come out on the long pour. The cucumber is already there before you add a slice.

The recipe

There is not one canonical ratio, only conventions.

British classic: 1 part gin, 3 parts tonic, in a tall highball glass over plenty of ice, with a lime wedge.

Spanish gin tonica: 1 part gin, 2 parts tonic, in a copa de balón balloon glass packed with large-format ice, garnished with a strip of citrus peel and whatever botanicals echo the gin’s bill.

We pour ours about 1:2.5, splitting the difference, in whatever tall glass is on the shelf. The point is enough tonic to take the alcoholic edge off and leave the gin clearly present. Too much tonic and the drink is bitter water with a hint of juniper. Not enough and the drink is gin with a fizzy lid.

Making one well

The gin needs juniper. This is the rule for almost every gin drink, and especially this one. A gin that hides the juniper makes a Gin and Tonic that tastes like sweetened mineral water. Gallon House Gin’s 88-proof juniper carries through the longest pour.

The tonic has to be cold and fresh. Open a bottle that was already opened yesterday and the carbonation is gone. The drink is dead before you garnish it. Use a fresh bottle every time. The little 200ml mixers are made for exactly this reason.

The ice has to be a lot of it. A Gin and Tonic with three small cubes melts down to gin water in two minutes. A glass packed with ice, and large-format ice if you can manage it, holds the drink cold without overdiluting.

The garnish does work. A lime wedge is fine and traditional. A strip of cucumber peel echoes Gallon House’s cucumber finish. A few juniper berries crushed lightly between the fingers and dropped in pull the gin forward. A sprig of rosemary brings out the herbal end of the bill. Pick one or pick three. The Spanish convention is to pick three; the British convention is to pick one. Both are right.

Variations worth knowing

The Spanish-style G&T with elaborate garnishes is the modern version that bartenders pour. Cucumber ribbons, pink peppercorns, juniper berries, rosemary sprigs, citrus peels, chosen to echo the gin’s botanical bill.

The Pink G&T uses a pink-grapefruit tonic or adds a few dashes of grapefruit bitters. It pairs well with floral or peppery gins.

A Gin Rickey is the dry cousin: gin, fresh lime juice, club soda, no quinine, no sugar. It is what a Gin and Tonic tastes like with the bitter and the sweet removed, which is to say a different drink entirely.

The Gin Buck swaps tonic for ginger ale. The ginger pulls the juniper in a different direction and gives the drink a warmer profile.

A Vodka Tonic is the same template with vodka in place of gin. It is a fine drink but it is not a Gin and Tonic. The juniper is the whole point.

On the Churchill quote

You will sometimes see the line “the gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire” attributed to Winston Churchill. It is almost certainly apocryphal. Churchill watered his Scotch heavily, drank Champagne and brandy at meals, and is not on record as a gin drinker. The line is not found in his published writings or speeches indexed by the Hillsdale College Churchill Project, which catalogs his attributed quotations. It is one of those lines that became Churchillian by repetition. The drink does not need the quote. The drink stands on its own.

The recipe

2 oz Gallon House Gin 4 to 5 oz cold tonic water (Fever-Tree, Q, or Schweppes — all work) plenty of ice, large-format if you have it Garnish: a wedge of fresh lime, or a strip of cucumber peel, or both

Build in a tall glass or a copa de balón balloon glass. Add ice. Pour the gin over the ice. Top with cold tonic. Garnish.

Worth drinking again

The Gin and Tonic is the drink we pour when we have stopped trying to be impressive. It is what we hand somebody after a long hike, after a hot afternoon, after a birthday speech, after the day is finally over. The combination is older than most of the bars that still serve it and simpler than almost any other long drink in the canon, and the drink has survived everything because it does not actually need anything. Gin, tonic, ice, lime. That is the entire job.

Pour one with a juniper-led gin, a fresh tonic, and enough ice. The Gin and Tonic will do the rest.

Sources


About the author

Adam Messick is the founder of Abiqua Spirit Distillery in Silverton, Oregon, with ten years in the craft spirits industry. With help from family and friends, he handles the day-to-day work of distilling, blending, bottling, and labeling every release of Silverton Vodka, Gallon House Gin, and Üla Orange Liqueur. Silverton Vodka received the American Distilling Institute’s Gold Medal in 2019. Silverton Vodka, Gallon House Gin, and Üla Orange Liqueur have each won Silver at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

Abiqua Spirit Distillery is a small-batch spirits company producing finely crafted potato vodka, gin, and orange liqueur from Silverton, Oregon. Contact: info@abiquaspiritdistillery.com or (503) 837-9869.